how to disable a user account in windows 7 home premium

Found the same answer several places, the DOS command to disable a user account without deleting it. The link that I used is this one:

dmmthinksitsfunny.blogspot.com/2011/08/disable-user-account-in-windows-7-home.html?m=1

orchard toys rocket game rules

Enough information to reconstruct the rules to The Rocket Game can be found here:

https://www.google.com/amp/s/johnthetoyshopguy.wordpress.com/2013/06/06/the-toy-testers-test-orchard-games-rocket-game/amp/

Micro USB Y Power Cable

Looking for any possible replacement for the somewhat chunky and unfortunately short Y power adapter cable that comes with the SmartiPi case. So far, nothing great has been found.

Here is a Y cable from USBFireWire, but it's all wrong. Not only is it likely that their gigantic connector shells won't fit inside the case, but it seems from the description that it has a full USB data hub built in which is just overkill for this application: http://www.usbfirewire.com/parts/rr-am-yh-mcbx2-xxg.html#RR-AM-YH-MCBX2-18G

The drawing of the USBFireWire cable, which contains references to a PCB which is probably where the hub is: http://www.usbfirewire.com/App_Themes/Skin_4/images/pdfs/RR-AM-YH-MCBX2-XXG_TechnicalDrawing.pdf?1480059672

This one is nice, but at 3.5 feet is way too long: https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Micro-Splitter-Charge-Cable/dp/B004IMEN7C

Ok this one might be perfect, 18 inches long and unbroken USBA to two microUSBs, but what is "Amzer"?https://www.amzer.com/Amzer-USB-to-Dual-Micro-USB-Y-Splitter-Twin-Charging-Handy-Cable-P85745.htm

Here's a fairly beautiful one, but at 1m it's a little too long, plus it's from AliExpress which is no good for purchase orders. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/USB-2-0-to-Micro-USB-2-0-M-M-Cable-Charger-Data-Twin-Head-Dual/32620645263.html

This Enercell one is oddly obscure considering that it has the Enercell name (no other hits on Google aside from Amazon and Ebay) but it looks about perfect if just a hair long at 24": https://www.amazon.com/Enercell-Universal-Micro-Adapter-Splitter/dp/B01JKNVK8S

Another perfect but unpurchasable AliExpress product. 18 inches and long leads on the microUSB side: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CY-2-in-1-Combo-USB-to-Micro-USB-Dual-Plug-Data-Charger-Splitter-Cable-for/32277420864.html

Nearly perfect but too short: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UCEC-2x-New-Splitter-Cable-USB-male-To-Micro-USB-Dual-Male-Y-Adapter-Black/32734573102.html

Amazingly, DX has a microUSB version of its alligator test lead power cable, but sadly it seems to be permanently out of stock. This would be a very nice solution if I didn't actually need a Y-cable because the display and pi require separate power: http://www.dx.com/p/micro-usb-male-to-dual-alligator-clips-power-test-cable-black-400890

USB Left Angle A to Up Angle B 8 inches

This is the killer cable that vastly improves the look of the USB link in the suitcase:

http://www.usbfirewire.com/parts/rr-ar4tbr4-xxg.html

Ultra-Thin HDMI cables

Was looking for an 18-inch HDMI M-F ultra-thin extension cable, didn't find it so had to combine a HDMI M-M cable with a coupler. As with most cables that I find myself looking for, the thing that I want seems to be coming out of some factory in China and being rebranded as convenient by whoever is distributing it. Which means, sadly, that the supply of this particular cable is likely to dry up as soon as the factory switches to making something else.

Here is the the one that I bought off of Amazon and tried out. It works great but it's coming from just the cheeziest distribution front, "MyCableMart.com". Amazon lists the manufacturer's part number as HA-HH36-01. https://www.amazon.com/MyCableMart-Ultra-Slim-Cable-Ethernet-Plated/dp/B00U1SVGF4/

Here is MyCableMart.com's page for this cable: http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=4493

Here's what looks like the same thing from Monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=13578

Another version of this cable doesn't have the gold contacts but is clearly the same design. It is being marketed by Paralinx which seems to specialize in camera equipment but it's not too likely that they are acting as anything other than another distributor for a Chinese factory: https://www.amazon.com/Paralinx-quot-Ultra-Thin-HDMI-Cable/dp/B00R5J2I4K/

Here's the Paralinx cable on the website of the distributor that Amazon lists. Note that the part number is 11-1235, and they also sell a 12 inch version: http://www.adorama.com/prlh18.html

Here's Adorama's page of all the Paralinx cables that they sell, lots of good stuff here: http://www.adorama.com/l/TVs-and-Home-Entertainment/Cables-and-Adapters/Paralinx~HDMI-and-DVI-Cables

USB to Alligator Clip or test lead cables

Here's the USB female to power wires adapter:

From Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Alligator-Clips-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B011IZVZSG/

As sold directly by DX: http://www.dx.com/p/diy-dual-alligator-clips-to-usb-female-power-test-cable-black-red-62cm-371842#.WD2YzbIrLIU

As sold by DX's USA store (different SKU number for some reason): http://www.dxsoul.com/product/diy-dual-alligator-clips-to-usb-female-power-test-cable-black-red-62cm-901371842

Here's the USB male to test clips harness (to use for checking polarity hookup of the female adapter):

From Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Alligator-Clips-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B011IZVZSG

As sold directly by DX: http://www.dx.com/p/diy-usb-male-to-dual-alligator-clips-power-test-cable-black-red-85cm-367144#.WDhynEbXuy4

As sold by DX's USA store (different SKU number for some reason): http://www.dxsoul.com/product/diy-usb-male-to-dual-alligator-clips-power-test-cable-black-red-85cm-901367144

Here's a super cheap, super simple alternative to the test cables (but would need some kind of safety protocol to use in an assembly process): https://www.amazon.com/Type-Breakout-Board-2-54mm-Header/dp/B01CEL1FW4/

Oh and astonishingly, DX has them for micro USB as well although they're presently sold out:

http://www.dx.com/p/micro-usb-male-to-dual-alligator-clips-power-test-cable-black-400890

can't uninstall a program windows 7

While installing our antique Clifford Phonics game on our newish Windows 7 netbook, I made a mistake which required me to reboot the netbook before the installation was complete. As a result, the installed program wouldn't run, but more maddenly the uninstaller didn't seem to do anything. It detected that the program was present and offered to uninstall it, but after the uninstaller ran for a while and declared victory the program was still present and the installer just went to the uninstaller. The solution was found on several websites; it was to go to the registry editor and find the install key for the program and wipe it out directly. The files were still on my hard drive, but the program no longer appeared on the list of installed programs and now the installer worked again and I was finally able to let it run all the way to its finish and the program now works.

Here is the best link on how to do this, followed by the same information not presented as nicely in other links:

https://turbofuture.com/computers/How-to-force-uninstall-a-program

https://www.cnet.com/forums/discussions/how-to-delete-a-program-that-won-t-uninstall-264878/

http://www.techradar.com/news/software/10-tips-for-removing-a-program-that-won-t-uninstall-907471

How to watch amazon prime streaming video on apple tv

Download the amazon video app to an iphone. When watching the video, find the familiar Airplay button somewhere on the screen and direct the video to the Apple TV as usual.

http://www.businessinsider.com/how-to-watch-amazon-videos-on-apple-tv-2016-3/#all-youll-need-isthe-amazon-video-app-an-iphone-or-ipad-and-of-course-an-apple-tv-1

Contec PCIe analog i/o cards

Contec's I/O board list, unhelpfully broken down by computer interface:

http://www.contec.com/products/daq/analogio.php

Contec's equally giant distributor in the Americas:

http://www.dtx.com/

On this page, click on Global Products catalog, and either plug in the number of an analog I/O card (e.g. "AO-1604LI" or just go directly to page 7 for the chart that lists all their I/O cards by input and output buses and other features.

http://www.dtx.com/products/contec

Going to need one of these I/O blocks:

http://www2.contec.co.jp/prod_data/epd50a/epd50a_e.pdf

will M4 bolt fit in #8 imperial clearance hole?

Short answer, the #8 bolt is bigger than the M4 bolt, but will likely still fit in the M4 clearance hole.

#8 bolt: Major diameter: .1640"/4.1656mm Close fit: .1695"/4.3053mm Free fit: .1770"/4.4958mm

M4: Major diameter: 4mm/0.15748" Close fit: 4.20mm/0.165354" Free Fit: 4.40mm/0.173228

Some sources:


http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/150402-8-32-bolt-fit-4-5mm-hole.html

English clearance holes:
http://littlemachineshop.com/reference/tapdrill.php

Metric clearance holes:
http://littlemachineshop.com/reference/TapDrillSizes.pdf

rtc voltage low

add ioctl to get/clear battery low status:

https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/rtc-linux/

clear by just writing a new time? Seems unlikely:

https://forums.xilinx.com/t5/Embedded-Linux/RTC-retrieved-date-time-is-not-valid/td-p/266324

The source code:

http://lxr.free-electrons.com/source/drivers/rtc/rtc-pcf8563.c

Seems to suggest that the driver has a built-in clear of the low voltage bit, but how to access it?

Looks like my problem but nobody solved it:

https://forum.mqmaker.com/t/missing-rtc-coin-battery/171/20

The data sheet for the chip:

http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/philips/PCF8563-02.pdf

Update: The RTC voltage low messages, while disturbing, turned out to be a completely false lead as to why the RTC clock was not returning the saved time. The actual answer was that I was not actually saving the time to the clock chip as I thought I was doing, because the "hwclock -w" command that I was using to write the system time needed a "-f /dev/rtc1" parameter. Without that parameter, the command was defaulting to save to /def/rtc0 which was the CPU's built-in, non-battery-backed hwclock.