I am having to lie in my own bed with this drain tile, but I think that in the end it might still work out.
The first question is whether to bring the pipe in through the wall at its current height or try to dig down and find the existing drain tile or some other solution. I think the answer is still to bring it through the at height. Digging down to the drain tile seems like it won't help because from the earlier excavation it seems like it could be just anywhere, plus there's no guarantee that it goes to the sump any more.
The second question is the size of pipe to bring through. I still really like the idea of bringing a 3" pipe through, even though that's going to stress out my wall, particularly if I have to sheath it, and even though I'm immediately knocking it down to a 2" pipe once it comes through so that I can put the valve on it.
The third question is at what height to bring it through. The test drilling really hinted that I shouldn't go lower than that one mortar seam.
The last question is how to bring it through without either creating a huge leak or ruining the resale value of the house. It appears that pipes of this sort are sealed with a variety of sealants, but the polyurothane is the preferred solution at present. Other options are cement (buh), epoxy, and tar. I can get epoxy and tar at the local big box hardware store, the PE will be mail order and spendy.
Links:
Ask The Builder dispells the idea that the black tar on the foundation wall is good for "waterproofing", and talks a bit about epoxies and urothanes:
http://www.askthebuilder.com/015_Exterior_Foundation_Wall_Waterproofing.shtml
Here's somebody selling a product by dishing dirt on the epoxy solution. Actually, this goes through all the different systems and was a pretty good tour of the options:
http://www.basementsystems.com/foundation-repair/wall-crack-solution.html
Here's Ask The Builder's typically specifics-free report on epoxies:
http://www.askthebuilder.com/B119_Concrete_Epoxy_Masonry_Epoxy_Repair.shtml
Interestingly, the Wikipedia article has some info on polymer repair glues:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basement_waterproofing#Exterior_Waterproofing
This "give up hope" articles isn't as good as the one from Basement Systems, but is a good review of the ptions:
http://ezinearticles.com/?Why-You-Should-Hire-a-Professional-For-Concrete-Crack-Injection&id=4270412
Here's another "don't waste your time" article by a guy who clearly seems to be selling something, but he doesn't say what:
http://franchise.basementtechnologies.com/the-basement-business-blog/bid/51429/7-Ineffective-Exterior-Foundation-Waterproofing-Products-And-Methods
Here is where the question of sleeving came up, in a hotly debated forum covering the definition of Masonry, the International Building Code, and the history of sleeving:
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/repair/msg1216154232149.html?14
Here is another good forum post, although it is not clear if the sleeve/no sleeve issue is resolved:
http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Default.aspx?tabid=53&aff=14&aft=56669&afv=topic
Here is the forum post that led to the online source for the PE kit:
http://basementhealth.org/forum/topics/help-sealing-around-sump-pump?commentId=6324810%3AComment%3A5355
Here is the online kit:
http://www.emecole.com/products/Emecole-120-Polyurethane-Foam-%252d-D%252dI%252dY-Pipe-Penetration-Kit-%281%252d2-Pipes%29.html
Here is a funny suggestion for using roof flashing:
http://books.google.com/books?id=adupJ99htGUC&pg=PA54&lpg=PA54&dq=seal+a+drain+penetration+in+a+foundation+wall&source=bl&ots=NjuS6siQgh&sig=6FyiXvjwfLvQzjmrlFQrqrzAI5Q&hl=en&ei=0TjaSav7D4iSMuCJ4OEO&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=7#v=onepage&q=seal%20a%20drain%20penetration%20in%20a%20foundation%20wall&f=false
